Piazza St. Stefano is also known by locals as the Square of the Seven Churches. Never mind that there are now only four churches standing (the one on the left of this picture is the Basilica of St. Stefano) this place is worth a visit if you visit Bologna. Early morning is an especially good time to appreciate the serenity of the piazza. Being greenhorn tourists we were caught at the entrance of the Basilica by a woman asking for money. Having been to Florence the day before and been charged to enter the Santa Maria Novella, we assumed this was some sort of entrance charge. We asked how much and the woman looked at the coins in our hand and pointed to 2 Euros. We duly paid and it was only on leaving when we saw others waltz in through the other door, without so much as a glance at the woman, that we realised she was a beggar. It was probably the first time she had anyone ask her how much she wanted. Her modesty will no doubt fare her well on judgement day ... if you believe in that kind of thing.
Having experienced morning in the Piazza, you'll want to come back in the evening to dine at the restaurant just behind the white awning (click on the photo for a larger view) you see on the right of the photograph. I've mentioned the Ristorante Cesarina before and I'll probably do it again. The best lasagne I have ever tasted.
Posted by Joe at November 18, 2003 06:07 PMIt's lovely to see pics of Bologna - seems a very long time ago that I lived there and a fair bit of time since I went to the annual book fair. I wish I'd known about Cesarina then. Next time you go, get someone to take you to an Osteria before you go out to dinner, or indeed for dinner if you want. You can have a few beers/ glasses of wine and a plate of food - I remember having the best crostini ever in via del Pratello (I didn't think the name of the street would come back to me!)
Posted by: Honey at November 21, 2003 04:45 AMThe people I go to visit are undoubtedly Osteria kind of people. I should be back there sometime next year. Can't wait to go to one.
Posted by: Joe at November 21, 2003 07:25 AM