May 25, 2004

Mind that pig

A blog should be about good writing. As I don't exhibit much of that these days (did I ever?) I thought I'd put something up here that some of you might be interested in. A good friend has just travelled a little through India. He traced some steps he took over 20 years ago. Here is the first installment of his story of those travels and he tells it after returning to Delhi from a three day trip to Punjab.

The main point of the trip was to see the boarding school I taught at all those 22 years ago. So I arranged for a driver to take me up there, and drive me around while there. He came to my hotel at 11am on Saturday. Can't help sounding condescending but he was a real sweetie. He's very small in stature and greeted me with a big white smile. But I could tell immediately he was very conscientious and I knew I was in good hands. That impression was confirmed when he conducted a little prayer ritual at the wheel before starting the engine. It's been blisteringly hot here - today was 44°C (108°F?) up in Punjab - so I made sure I got a car with aircon. We set off winding and wending our way out of Delhi with the driver pretty much sitting on the horn. Delhi is still by our standards a vast slum and the traffic, though actually not as bad as I thought it would be, is complete bedlam. You swerve left to avoid that oncoming bus, only to careen right to save that pig. A couple of days before I left I took a wander round this hotel and was treated to the site of what looked like a giant boar, though without the tusks, on its side suckling its boarlets (?) next to the lychee stall.

As we drove I longed for the sight of the green fields of Haryana, one of Delhi's neighbouring states. It used to be part of the Punjab, but Punjab was carved into pieces at independence. Area-wise, most was over in Pakistan and now Pakistan also has a state called Punjab. The Indian side was divided into three: the majority-Hindu states of Haryana and Himachal Pradesh (in the Himalayas), and Punjab itself which is majority Sikh.

Well those fields came after about an hour and it was wonderful to be back in what I feel is the real India: the lush green fields studded like gems with the bright coloured saris of the women working them. That brown dot is probably a man sitting under a tree watching proceedings.

We crossed the state border into Punjab an hour before dusk, and with the setting sun the colours got even richer. With no rain in the area for a couple of weeks, the dust rendered the sun deep orange a good hour before it set, turning later to a huge bright red. "Government of Punjab - Pay state road tax here" urged a sign outside a dilapidated structure near the border. That's the "new" building, explained my driver, and pointed out the old one on the other side of the road - what looked like an abandoned thatched milk stall. We paid the tax. "Safe drivery means longer life!", another sign reminded us as we drove off. At nightfall we were only about an hour away from Anandpur Sahib, the Sikh holy town near the school, but we found a decent looking hotel so we stopped there. I noticed how the Punjabis look generally cleaner and better off than their Delhi brethren, which makes sense because the last I heard Punjab is still the richest state in India. That may not last long though, as South India, with its far superior English, grabs more of those outsourcing jobs. My driver explained to me that in the south, even the 'labourers' speak perfect English as well as their native tongue. And English is the first language in many if not most homes, he said, even above the language of their area. I wonder if that really is true. Most homes?

I was ready for some emotional moments as I woke the next day, but didn't really know what to expect. While Googling the Sri Dasmesh Academy a few weeks ago in a (vain) attempt to find the phone number, I found some intriguing articles in the online versions of the Times of India and the Hindustan Times. One said that a boy at the school was accidentally shot dead in a hunting expedition from the school about a year ago. The article criticised the school for improper supervision, while I was left to wonder what sort of school arranges hunting trips - certainly not the case in my day! Another article reported that about 30 older boys had run away from the school, though later came back. In another incident many of the staff were fired all at once, though I couldn't glean the real reason. The school was having trouble filling places, one article said. That's a far cry from when I was there, when parents would apparently beg for their kids to be let in. The place seemed to be going downhill fast. What would I find? Might there still be a teacher or two still there from 22 years ago? Arriving out of the blue, what reception would I get? Being Sunday, and possibly during a school holiday (some said yes, others no), would there in fact be anyone there?

Further installments to follow.

Posted by Joe at May 25, 2004 11:35 PM
Comments

Methinks the words of RT-P - but then the writer's age comes into question. Whatever, next installment, please.

Posted by: martin at May 26, 2004 11:32 AM

Keep it coming!

Recently I had to educate the offspring, who was joining his mates in teasing one particular classmate: Where's your punjabi? Where's your punjabi?

I told him Punjabi was not only a style of dress but also a language, and that both were native to Punjab, which is only one of several states in India. To wit: that not all Indians are Punjabi (or wear them).

I might have him read this article for even further enlightenment.

Posted by: DJ at May 26, 2004 01:48 PM

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